Breeding your Chinchillas
Jasper and one of his kits.
If you think you may want to try breeding chinchillas, you have to make sure you have a few things before you start. First you will need both a buck (male) and a doe (female) chinchilla and a kit safe cage (read below for info). Before breeding, I suggest that you take the chinchillas, if they have never met before anyway, and allow them to get to know each other outside of the cages. A good place to play is a separate room or play pen where you can supervise. If the chins seem to be getting along and there is no fur pulling or biting, they can be placed in the same cage. I advise washing the cage and spraying a light amount of perfume in it before you put them in it to prevent them from fighting. If a cage smells like one of the chins, they may feel they have to defend their home. Chinchilla does tend to be more territorial than bucks, so I suggest using the buck's cage after washing. If the chins are fighting, place the cages side by side and let them get to know each other. For more information about introducing chinchillas, please read the "Meeting a New Friend" section on the Helpful Hints page.
Leave the chinchillas in the same cage for around two to three months to ensure they breed. It may take them longer depending on the chinchillas. A good sign that the doe is in heat is when the buck does the swishy tail dance. The buck will make a series of peeps and chirps and he will wiggle his tail back and forth when he is next to her. He may or may not attempt to breed the doe.
Leave the chinchillas in the same cage for around two to three months to ensure they breed. It may take them longer depending on the chinchillas. A good sign that the doe is in heat is when the buck does the swishy tail dance. The buck will make a series of peeps and chirps and he will wiggle his tail back and forth when he is next to her. He may or may not attempt to breed the doe.
Prenatal Care
A very pregnant Tickles takes time to relax.
Breeding chinchillas can be a big responsibility. Nursing/pregnant mothers and their kits need special care that a typical adult chinchilla does not normally require. If you think your chinchilla is pregnant and you are not sure what to do, please feel free to email us or your vet for help. Like all mothers, extra care should be provided for the chin-mom. You may not know your chin is pregnant until the last month of her pregnancy. She may see a drastic gain in weight since it is normally when the kits grow the most.
She will need to be given more food; after all she is eating for more than herself now. Her dish should be filled with high quality pellets and hay should be offered at all times. I feed Mazuri, but Tradition and Kalmback plain pellet feeds are also good! Do not feed rabbit food or a blended feed to any chinchilla! She should be allowed to eat as much as she needs. She should be fed a second cut Alfalfa hay or a Timothy/Alfalfa mix. Alfalfa hay is richer and contains more nutrition that plain Timothy hay and this helps mom out. A safe wheel can be given to ensure she and her mate don't become overweight (remember to remove a couple days before birth). It is wise to limit her treat intake (drop it down to one a day or one every other day).
She will need to be given more food; after all she is eating for more than herself now. Her dish should be filled with high quality pellets and hay should be offered at all times. I feed Mazuri, but Tradition and Kalmback plain pellet feeds are also good! Do not feed rabbit food or a blended feed to any chinchilla! She should be allowed to eat as much as she needs. She should be fed a second cut Alfalfa hay or a Timothy/Alfalfa mix. Alfalfa hay is richer and contains more nutrition that plain Timothy hay and this helps mom out. A safe wheel can be given to ensure she and her mate don't become overweight (remember to remove a couple days before birth). It is wise to limit her treat intake (drop it down to one a day or one every other day).
HEALTH RISK: DO NOT FEED CHINCHILLAS RABBIT FOOD OR BLENDED CHINCHILLA FOOD!!!
Preparing for the Kits' Arrival
Ed & Elizabeth's kit, Isaac.
Chinchilla kits are born fully developed. They are fully-furred, eyes are open, and they are able to climb, run, and walk within hours after birth. This means the cage must be properly secured. Kits are small and can slip through the bars of a typical cage. The average cage has one inch bars or squares. These are not a safe place for a kit as they can easily escape and become injured. Once out, they can become lost or be injured by other pets in the house. To prevent escapees, you can build your own cage, buy a new one, or you could wrap your current cage with half inch squared wire.
I normally add a small house or a PVC pipe that only the kits can fit into so the kits can get away from the parents. Sometimes adult chins hop and jump around the cage during play and small kits can be hurt if an adult lands on them.
I normally add a small house or a PVC pipe that only the kits can fit into so the kits can get away from the parents. Sometimes adult chins hop and jump around the cage during play and small kits can be hurt if an adult lands on them.
The Kits' Arrival
Two new born kits.
Kits are typically born in the morning between 6 a.m. and 11 a.m., but sometimes they are born on late at night (depends on the mother). You will know the kits are born when you hear soft peeps coming from the cage and mom is sitting in a corner or in her house (if she has one). The doe and bedding will be covered in blood, but this is normal. You generally will not need to assist the mother, she normally does the work on her own. Once a kit is born, the doe will clean up the kit and hide it under her so it can nurse and dry. Sometimes if there is more than one kit is born, you may need to help her dry the kits. If it is warm enough, you will not need to worry about drying them. I recommend removing the chinchilla dad for about five days to prevent breed backs; the mother can be bred after she gives birth. The father should take to his kits and start caring for them right along with the mother. If you only want one litter, do not put the buck back in the cage with the doe.
Depending on the number of kits born (between one and six) and the female, the kits can very in size. The more kits that are born, the smaller the kits tend to be. A set of twins or an individual is normally larger than a set of three, four, or more. A first time mom tends to have smaller kits. You may need to watch a first time mom to ensure she doesn't accidentally eat off a toe or part of a tail while cleaning. Our chin Arnold was a first born and his mother ate off toes from one foot and ate off part of his tail. While painful, the kit's life is very rarely at risk. Our female Tickles (a large chin) is known for having two to three kits that are very plump, while Elizabeth (a medium sized chin) normally has just one meduim sized kit.
Depending on the number of kits born (between one and six) and the female, the kits can very in size. The more kits that are born, the smaller the kits tend to be. A set of twins or an individual is normally larger than a set of three, four, or more. A first time mom tends to have smaller kits. You may need to watch a first time mom to ensure she doesn't accidentally eat off a toe or part of a tail while cleaning. Our chin Arnold was a first born and his mother ate off toes from one foot and ate off part of his tail. While painful, the kit's life is very rarely at risk. Our female Tickles (a large chin) is known for having two to three kits that are very plump, while Elizabeth (a medium sized chin) normally has just one meduim sized kit.
Growing Kits
Arnold's brother, Frankie (adopted!)
As the kits grow they will begin eating hay and pellets. Once they start, you need to ensure hay is available at all times. I recommend second cut alfalfa since the babies are growing and will need the nutrition. I feed around 1/4 cup of food per chin in the cage. Some chins eat more than others depending on their nutritional needs. A chinchilla with an exercise wheel or an active chinchilla tends to consume more food.
Kits generally start trying to eating pellets and hay around three or four weeks old, while they also drink milk from their mother. At around eight to nine weeks old the babies can be weaned and separated to from their parents. It is wise to watch them for about a week or two to ensure they are eating well. If they are all doing well, then they are now ready to be adopted by a loving family!
Kits generally start trying to eating pellets and hay around three or four weeks old, while they also drink milk from their mother. At around eight to nine weeks old the babies can be weaned and separated to from their parents. It is wise to watch them for about a week or two to ensure they are eating well. If they are all doing well, then they are now ready to be adopted by a loving family!