Care & Information About Chinchillas
"On this page, we have almost all you need to know about me and my fellow chinchillas; from basic care to treatment of minor health problems. If your chinchilla is experiencing any health problems, you should contact your breeder, they will normally be able to handle the situation. In case of an emergeny, contact your veterinarian. They're both normally happy to help you out! Remember, knowledge is power! Learn more about us before you bring one of us home!"
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Have a problem with your chinchilla? Even if you didn't get it from us please feel free to contact us for help!
General Information
A chinchilla is a small rodent with a round, compact body, large round ears, and a bushy squirrel-like tail. Chinchillas can be nine to sixteen inches in length and will weigh on average about 600 to 700 grams. Some animals may vary in weight from a small 300 grams to a very large 1,100 gram animal. Generally, the female, or doe, will be slightly larger than the male, known as a buck.
The typical chinchilla will have a broad head, large eyes, and large ears. They have small front legs and feet that have no visible nails. Even without thumbs, the small front feet can be used to grab and hold food. The hind feet are long and narrow with large pads on the bottom. The hind legs of the chinchilla are very strong and are used for jumping. The shoulders are narrow; the rest of the body gradually gets wider at the hips. The chinchilla’s velvety coat is what first made it so popular. But why is the coat so soft? The coat of the chinchilla has very few guard hairs in comparison to the amount of undercoat. The hair is extremely dense and adds to the softness. This also means that chinchillas cannot get fleas.
The typical chinchilla will have a broad head, large eyes, and large ears. They have small front legs and feet that have no visible nails. Even without thumbs, the small front feet can be used to grab and hold food. The hind feet are long and narrow with large pads on the bottom. The hind legs of the chinchilla are very strong and are used for jumping. The shoulders are narrow; the rest of the body gradually gets wider at the hips. The chinchilla’s velvety coat is what first made it so popular. But why is the coat so soft? The coat of the chinchilla has very few guard hairs in comparison to the amount of undercoat. The hair is extremely dense and adds to the softness. This also means that chinchillas cannot get fleas.
Before You Adopt a Chin
Honey being nosy!
Bringing a chinchilla into your home can be a big event! They are fun, friendly, and unqiue pets and are great companions to anyone who loves them! However, before adopting one, everyone should take the time to learn a little bit more about them. A chinchilla can live to be 15 to 20 years old, and this can be a long commitment. If for any reason, you are unable to care for your chinchilla, please bring it back to us for rehoming. We only want to ensure your furry friend receives a loving home. We also take in rescue chins. Chinchillas have their own special needs and deserve love like all other pets.
The Chinchilla Diet
Mazuri Chinchilla Pellets
A diet of quality chinchilla pellets is a necessity. I feed Mazuri pellets; the chins love the taste and they grow very well on it (can be found in 25lb bags at J&B Feeds in Swanton, Wauseon, or Napoleon for about $17). Go to mazuri.com, then click on the "dealer locator" button at the bottom of the page and enter your zip code to find a dealer near you! Other good feed brands include Tradition and Kalmback feeds. Always feed a straight pellet feed and do not use petstore feeds with treats in them. There's no nutritional value to this feed and it can cause "dish digging" (see "Have a Troublesome Dish Digger" on the Helpful Hints page for more info on dish digging). Do not feed your chinchilla rabbit pellets, they can cause liver damage and will kill your little chinnie.
Plenty of roughage (second cut alfalfa hay or a grass and alfalfa mix) will provide your chinchilla with a healthy diet. A second cut alfalfa or an alfalfa/grass hay blend will give extra nutrition to growing kits and pregnant females. First cut alfalfa hay may be a little too rich if your chin is not used to it. Plenty of hay will also aid your chin if it housed in cooler weather. Another form of roughage is dried corn leaves. Simply pull out some leaves (green or golden) and set out to dry if they are moist. Store both hay and corn leaves in a cool dry place to prevent mold growth as this can kill your chin. I store mine in plastic bins that can be found at about any store. I feed hay daily, usually one small to large handful depending on how many chinchillas are in the cage.
One or two treats a day is the recommended amount. Safe treats include raisins and other dried fruits like craisins (dried cranberries) or banana chips. Some chins also like fresh treats like apple, carrot, or banana slices. Avoid things like chocolate and things people consider treats. Always have fresh water available for your chinnie.
Plenty of roughage (second cut alfalfa hay or a grass and alfalfa mix) will provide your chinchilla with a healthy diet. A second cut alfalfa or an alfalfa/grass hay blend will give extra nutrition to growing kits and pregnant females. First cut alfalfa hay may be a little too rich if your chin is not used to it. Plenty of hay will also aid your chin if it housed in cooler weather. Another form of roughage is dried corn leaves. Simply pull out some leaves (green or golden) and set out to dry if they are moist. Store both hay and corn leaves in a cool dry place to prevent mold growth as this can kill your chin. I store mine in plastic bins that can be found at about any store. I feed hay daily, usually one small to large handful depending on how many chinchillas are in the cage.
One or two treats a day is the recommended amount. Safe treats include raisins and other dried fruits like craisins (dried cranberries) or banana chips. Some chins also like fresh treats like apple, carrot, or banana slices. Avoid things like chocolate and things people consider treats. Always have fresh water available for your chinnie.
HEALTH WARNING: DO NOT FEED CHINCHILLAS RABBIT FOOD!
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Maintance & Housing Maintaining a clean cage is very important to a chinchilla’s health. Chinchillas are naturally clean animals, so cleaning a cage is recommended once a week. A clean cage will ensure that your pet stays happy and healthy. Pine shavings are the most absorbent and safest. Cages should be at least 3 ft long,
2 ft wide, and 3ft tall. Chinchillas are very active, especially young chins, and they need to have plently of room to exercise. Despite what most chinchilla “experts” may say, chinchillas can do very well in cold temperatures. I house mine in the garage in winter and they actually do better in 30 to 40 degree weather. They have healthy looking coats and are always hopping and bouncing around. Letting a chinchilla live in cold weather is not cruel, leaving it in the "recommended" 80 degrees is. It's kind of like a person wearing a sweater when they're at the beach. It is hot and uncomfortable. Kits will need to have a heat lamp. When they are born, they are wet and can get chilled very easily. When raising kits, it is a must that you make sure the wire is at least a half inch of squared wire. If it is any bigger, the kits could escape and get hurt. Two out of our five cages are covered in 19 gage (half inch by half inch) wire to make sure the kits stay safe! The chins are rotated when they get close to birth. |
Handling a Chinchilla
Elizabeth being held by the tail and belly.
Chinchillas prefer to be held in a way they feel comfortable and safe. There are a few correct methods of handling that will make your chin feel right at home in your hands.
One way to pick up your chinchilla is to scoop it up. As your pet is sitting in its cage, put one hand on each side of it and scoop up the chin. Hold it close to your body so it feels secure. Once your pet is tame and comes up to you, it is very simple to use this method of handling. Remember to never squeeze your chin or make him or her feel squished or feel too much pressure. Being held too tighly can make a chin feel scared. Being gentle is the best way to hold it.
A second way to pick up your chin is to grab it by the base of its tail with one hand and support its belly with the other. This can be used for animals that are not as tame. If you are not comfortable holding a chinchilla, it will know and it may struggle. All of our chinchillas that were hand raised should be friendly, however, if a chin feels unsafe or scared it may struggle. Like other animals, chins know who will treat them right and who won’t. Always remember that the best way to tame your chin is to handle it gently and give it a treat or two each day. Being quiet, patient, and showing your pet love will guarantee a great addition to your family!
One way to pick up your chinchilla is to scoop it up. As your pet is sitting in its cage, put one hand on each side of it and scoop up the chin. Hold it close to your body so it feels secure. Once your pet is tame and comes up to you, it is very simple to use this method of handling. Remember to never squeeze your chin or make him or her feel squished or feel too much pressure. Being held too tighly can make a chin feel scared. Being gentle is the best way to hold it.
A second way to pick up your chin is to grab it by the base of its tail with one hand and support its belly with the other. This can be used for animals that are not as tame. If you are not comfortable holding a chinchilla, it will know and it may struggle. All of our chinchillas that were hand raised should be friendly, however, if a chin feels unsafe or scared it may struggle. Like other animals, chins know who will treat them right and who won’t. Always remember that the best way to tame your chin is to handle it gently and give it a treat or two each day. Being quiet, patient, and showing your pet love will guarantee a great addition to your family!
The Dust Bath
Ed and Fatty dusting in a jar.
Once a week or every three days, your chinnie will need to have a dust bath. Dust can be found at about any pet store or a local farm store. You can never substitute sand or cat litter as dust. It can irritate the eyes and nose and it just won't remove the excess oil in the coat. If your chin accidentally ingests either one, it can result in intestinal damage and it could kill your chin! Dust bath can be given in about any type of container; from a shoe box to the plastic dust baths shaped like houses. Please don't use the bath house shaped like a chinchilla. Almost all chins are way too big for it; Jasper even got stuck in it and we had to help him out. I offer dust in a one gallon glass jar. It is dishwasher safe and can be easily found around the house. The store bought dust bath that's shaped like a house is safe, too; although they may try to chew on it. Both are easy to clean and allow the chin to roll easily.
If you have a pregant female, do NOT give her a bath a few days before she is due and do NOT give her one until two weeks after the day the kits are born. She is still healing from birth and dust can cause an infection in her uterus. If infected, she will die! Her mate doesn't need to be seperated from her for a bath, he can wait the two weeks also. They will look a little dirty, but they will be okay!
If you have a pregant female, do NOT give her a bath a few days before she is due and do NOT give her one until two weeks after the day the kits are born. She is still healing from birth and dust can cause an infection in her uterus. If infected, she will die! Her mate doesn't need to be seperated from her for a bath, he can wait the two weeks also. They will look a little dirty, but they will be okay!
Common Diseases and Ailments
Fur Chewing or Fur Biting
Fur chewing is a condition in which a chinchilla will chew off their own fur or other chins' fur. This doesn't affect the chin's health, but it is annoying and makes the chinchilla look unattractive. A chin that chews their own fur will have fur missing in the hip and rump area. They will not be able to reach the top of the back and up around the shoulders. A chin that has another chin chewing on them could have fur missing about anywhere on the body. The photo to the bottom left is one that had another chinchilla chew on it. The one on the bottom right chews it's own fur. Fur chewing may be caused by stress or boredom, pet shop chins tend to be fur chewers or not as friendly. Fur chewing may also be a genectic or hereditary problem. I do not allow fur chewing in my breeding chins, whether it is genectic or not.
Abscesses and Cysts
An abscess under the chin's chin*
An abscess occurs when an animal receives an injury from a fall or other accident. Arnold had an abscess when he was young. I'm still not sure how he got it, but I believe it was from a fall. In the begining, it was a small marble sized, hard lump under the chin. If you are inexperienced in treating these, have your chin taken to a vet or to your breeder for treatment. After a few days or a week, the lump should soften and increase in size. Arnold's was about the size of a ping-pong ball. Once the abscess becomes soft, you have to check it everyday to find a soft spot where it will be ready to rupture. The abscess will be filled with puss and foul smelling, milky fluid. If you have a weak stomach, do not treat your chin. Once it is ready to rupture, fur loss will occur. Always cover your chinchilla's face to ensure it doesn't bite you. A scared chin will bite! You will need to remove some fluid using a needle and syringe. You may have to do this every few days for a week. Once it is time to remove to last bit of fluid (abscess will be soft all over), the wound must be cut open using a sharp, sterile razor and the remaing fliud squeezed out. Be careful, as the fluid may spray. After each session, always clean the wound out with hydrogen peroxide. This should only be done by someone who knows how to treat them!
Ringworm & Fungus
Chinchillas can become infected with a fungus known as ringworm. It generally is found on the ears, feet, and nose area; but it can also be found about anywhere on the body. Ringworm is not a "worm"; it is actually a virus that is highly contagious and it can be tranferred to about any other animal and to humans. Prevention is the key to not getting ringworm in your chins. Avoid cramped, crowded conditions (this may not be a problem if you only have a few) and high humidity (this is sometimes hard to control depending where your chins are housed). Always allow fresh air if possible. The fresh air helps to prevent ringworm and fungal growth. If your planning on adding a new chinchilla to your family, always buy one from a reputable breeder or a rescue to ensure the chin you want is healthy.
If you have a chin that gets ringworm, there are ways to treat it so there is no need to fret. Infected areas will have hair loss in circle-shaped patches and may have flaky skin within the patch. Aviod touching the spot cause people can also become infected. Don't give your chinchilla a dustbath, this will only spread the disease to other chins. The best way to treat this is with an antifungal powder. Creams are a little too hard on chins since they are small. Make sure you completely disinfect your cage every week to kill the fungus or else it will likey come back. Most breeders always experience on outbreak of ringworm. I have been lucky enough to not have this affect my chinchillas yet. Ringworm is not deadly, but it is extremely itchy.
If you have a chin that gets ringworm, there are ways to treat it so there is no need to fret. Infected areas will have hair loss in circle-shaped patches and may have flaky skin within the patch. Aviod touching the spot cause people can also become infected. Don't give your chinchilla a dustbath, this will only spread the disease to other chins. The best way to treat this is with an antifungal powder. Creams are a little too hard on chins since they are small. Make sure you completely disinfect your cage every week to kill the fungus or else it will likey come back. Most breeders always experience on outbreak of ringworm. I have been lucky enough to not have this affect my chinchillas yet. Ringworm is not deadly, but it is extremely itchy.
Teeth Management and Malocclusion
Items for chewing, such as pieces of wood or chew blocks, will keep the animal’s teeth filed down. The teeth can be checked every two months or so. The incisors should be gold to orange in color and appear straight. Teeth that have grown too long just need a trimming, and it is generally caused by not having anything to chew on. Always have a safe wood available (kiln dried pine) or a pumice stone/block avaible for your chin to chew on to prevent overgrown teeth. If the incisors become too long, the animal would be unable to eat and may loose weight. Another, more serious problem is malocclusion. It is when the teeth are not maintained and/or the chin has a defect in the jaw and teeth structure. A maloccuding chin will drool uncontrollably and most likely will be in severe pain. Most genetically sound and well cared for chins will never have a problem with malocclusion. It is generally a genetic trait, and I do not allow malocclusion carrier chins in my herd. However if you do own a chin that has it, take your chin to a vet for treatment.
* marks photos found on google